A memoir by Poorti Kulkarni, drawn from journeys over the years, and reflections that keep coming back.
[Poorti Kulkarni is a seasoned traveler and tour leader with over 20 years of experience in the travel industry. She has led tours across four continents, visiting nearly 20 countries—but the Himalayas remain her true calling.
A former national-level table tennis player, Poorti finds solace in the mountains. At Infinite Journeys, she heads the International Holidays Desk and occasionally leads the Offbeat Departures to the Himalayas.
She diligently follows a personal tradition of starting every New Year with a trek in the Himalayas.
Read her memoir and get inspired to travel to Ladakh through stories that go beyond the usual tourist trail ! ]
Ladakh… a land like no other! That’s not just a catchy phrase. It’s a feeling—one I’ve carried with me ever since I first set foot in this surreal, stark land tucked deep within the Himalayas.
It was once just a dream. A distant, wild, high-altitude dream. I promised myself I’d travel to Ladakh at least once in my lifetime. As it turns out, I’ve now been there thrice—and each time, I fell a little more in love with its raw beauty, silence, and soul.
When I first went, Ladakh wasn’t yet on the tourist map. There were no influencers posing at Pangong, no glamping sites in Nubra, and no long queues at Khardung La for selfies. The roads were rugged, the people were fewer, and the journey felt like an adventure into another realm. The Manali–Leh route, my chosen path into this otherworldly place, is one I’ll never forget.
Where Soldiers Stand Tall
What truly stood out—beyond the towering mountains and glacial lakes—was the silent presence of the Indian Army. Every few kilometres, there they were. A Jawan, standing tall, often for 10–12 hours straight, armed and alert, protecting borders in terrain that most of us wouldn’t last a day in.
They don’t go home for festivals. They don’t get to hug their families or eat warm food every day. And yet, the warmth in their eyes when a traveler stops for a chat or ties a rakhi during Rakshabandhan—it’s unforgettable. I remember long conversations with a few soldiers who had served on the frontlines. Their stories weren’t just brave—they were deeply human.
At Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, a serene pit stop en route to Lamayuru, I was amazed to discover that it’s managed entirely by the Army—even the housekeeper is a soldier. The humility, the care, the quiet discipline—it left me moved beyond words.
Before the World Found Out
This was before travel to Ladakh became a post-“Three Idiots” sensation. Back then, not many knew about the Druk Padma Karpo Institute in Leh. Today, it’s more famously called “Chatur’s School,” with a cheeky spot on the wall now marked as “Chatur’s Wall.” It makes you smile. It also makes you wonder how a single film can change the course of an entire region.
But Ladakh was never about just one lake or one film location. It was—and still is—a mosaic of moonscapes, valleys, monasteries, and stories waiting to be felt, not just seen.
Records, Roads, and Unexpected Discoveries
Fifteen years ago, the world’s three highest motorable passes were all in India—Khardung La (18,380 ft), Chang La (17,586 ft), and Tanglang La (17,480 ft). Driving through them felt like slicing through clouds. The wind slapped your face, the altitude played with your breath, but oh—the view was worth every dizzy heartbeat.
In recent years, Umling La Pass has claimed the title of the highest motorable road in the world—at a breathtaking 19,024 ft. Built by the Border Roads Organisation, it’s a marvel of engineering and grit. But make no mistake—it’s not for the faint-hearted or the unacclimatized.
And then there are the little things that stay with you: a board at the Indian Oil petrol pump in Leh that reads “On Top of the World.” A modest stall claiming to serve the world’s highest Idli-Dosa. The silence of Pangong Lake. The strange beauty of the cold desert in Nubra. The lunar landscape of Lamayuru. You don’t just travel to Ladakh—you absorb it.
The Changing Face of a Fragile Paradise
Over the years, I’ve seen Ladakh change. Some of it is heartening—better roads, more homestays, stronger connectivity. But some of it hurts. The rise in careless tourism, the garbage in places where there should be none, the disruption of a delicate ecosystem that can’t always speak for itself.
The mountains don’t scream. But they feel.
Ladakh doesn’t need more tourists. It needs thoughtful travelers. People who will tread gently, speak softly, and carry back not just photos, but respect.
Are you the one or aren’t you the one? Do get in touch with us and let us together ethically explore the Land of Thousand passes.
Ladakh Travel Tips from a Fellow Wanderer
- Acclimatization is a must. Spend at least 48 hours in Leh after flying in. Drink water, rest, avoid alcohol.
- Best travel window? Travel to Ladakh from June to September. Winter is for the brave (and well-equipped). In the winters, one can visit these areas (and Spiti) to see and photograph the elusive Snow Leopards. and yes. we can help you with that as well. We though can’t help you with the temperatures that will be in minus …. !!
- AMS is real. Carry basic medication after consulting your doctor.
- Permits matter. Places like Nubra, Pangong, and Umling La require Inner Line Permits. For Indian guests, it’s more of a formality. But you may leave this to us !
- Pack smart. Layered clothes, reusable water bottles, snacks, headlamp, and a power bank are non-negotiables.
- Stay connected (kind of). Only postpaid SIMs work. BSNL, Jio, and Airtel are your best bets in Leh. Beyond that—enjoy the digital detox!
- Respect everything. From the locals and their culture to the environment and military restrictions. Ask before you click. Leave no trash behind.
- Support local. Eat at local dhabas. Stay in eco-friendly homestays. Buy handcrafted souvenirs.
- Drink right. Stick to boiled or filtered water. Avoid cold drinks in the first few days.
- Carry cash. Leh has ATMs. Most other places don’t. Be prepared.
Why Travel to Ladakh?
Because….. it teaches you resilience ….. it whispers stories only the wind can carry …. it’s barren, and yet more beautiful than any green valley ….. it strips away the noise, and fills you with a quiet kind of awe.
Ladakh isn’t just a destination. It’s a teacher, a healer, a keeper of silences that echo long after you return.
Every Indian should go—not just to see, but to feel.
This was my Ladakh. And maybe, someday, it’ll be yours too.
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