This is an account of Poorti’s Journey to the Indian Matterhorn in the Lahaul Valley of Himachal
[Poorti Kulkarni is a seasoned traveler and tour leader with over 20 years of experience in the travel industry. She has led tours across four continents, visiting nearly 20 countries—but the Himalayas remain her true calling.
A former national-level table tennis player, Poorti finds solace in the mountains. At Infinite Journeys, she heads the International Holidays Desk and occasionally leads the Offbeat Departures to the Himalayas.
She diligently follows a personal tradition of starting every New Year with a trek in the Himalayas.
Join her in exploring the unexplored! ]
After years of exploring the world, I still find my true happy place in the Indian Himalayas. The Himalayas have always been my first love. Even after traveling extensively across the Globe, I find myself drawn back to these majestic mountains. While I’ve explored Ladakh and Spiti multiple times and even set foot in Lahaul before, the desire to explore Lahaul in depth had long remained on my wishlist.
Lahaul, nestled between the Greater Himalayas and Zanskar range, is a land of stark beauty and deep-rooted culture. Its Buddhist heritage is reflected in ancient monasteries like Shashur, Gondla, and Tayul, set against a dramatic high-altitude backdrop. Villages like Sissu, Koksar, and Keylong offer a glimpse into the region’s quiet, self-sustained lifestyle, where traditional stone houses and barley fields dot the landscape. With crystal-clear rivers, glacial valleys, and welcoming locals, Lahaul remains one of Himachal’s most untouched and soulful destinations.
The Journey Begins: A Nostalgic Return to Jispa
Before this trip, I had visited Jispa three times—in 2002, 2008, and 2010—while en route to Ladakh. Back then, finding quality accommodations in Jispa was a challenge, so we stayed in Keylong or Darcha instead. But Lahaul has changed, offering better stays and a chance to explore offbeat locations like Gumbok Rangan.
Let me take you through some places and sites in Lahaul that you might want to know about before planning your offbeat vacation to this hidden gem
Darcha: The Crossroads to High Himalayan Passes
Darcha is a small, scenic settlement in Lahaul, often serving as a base for treks and journeys deeper into the Himalayas. From here, two incredible routes diverge—one leading to Baralacha La and further to Leh, and the other to the remote Shinku La, the gateway to Zanskar.
Shinku La, rising above 5,000 meters, offers a thrilling drive through raw, high-altitude terrain and marks the entry into one of Ladakh’s most isolated valleys.
Gumbok Rangan – The Indian Matterhorn
Crossing Shinku La , the landscape unfolds into the wild and awe-inspiring expanse of Zanskar Valley. As you descend, the towering presence of Gumbok Rangan—a sacred, standalone peak—dominates the horizon. Revered by locals and stunning in its isolation, this mountain is both a spiritual landmark and a striking feature on the journey deeper into Zanskar’s remote beauty.
In 2024, I visited Gumbok Rangan, a stunning pyramid-shaped peak that immediately reminded me of the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps. That’s why I call it the “Indian Matterhorn.” Although it is technically located in Zanskar, it is easily accessible from Lahaul, requiring only a short entry into Ladakh.
My decision to visit Gumbok Rangan was spontaneous. One of my dear friends from Himachal had set a breathtaking picture of the peak as his WhatsApp display photo, sparking my curiosity. A fixed departure to Lahaul was already on the cards, and including this picture-perfect mountain didn’t call for the usual fierce debate we often have within the team.
For a change, my senior Rahul (Bhusari) agreed with me (!!!) and we decided to surprise our guests with this hidden gem—a perfect blend of adventure and discovery. The response was overwhelmingly positive, and given the success of that visit, I’ve included it once again in this year’s itinerary.
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The Atal Tunnel: A Game-Changer for Lahaul
Another highlight of our Lahaul tour was crossing the Atal Tunnel. It is a 9.02 km long tunnel built under the Rohtang Pass in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas, the tunnel has revolutionized travel by providing year-round access to Lahaul.
Back in 2010, when I last visited Lahaul, the tunnel’s construction had just begun. In December 2023, I finally crossed it for the first time, and it was an emotional moment—knowing that this engineering marvel had reshaped the way travelers experience this remote valley.
Koksar, the first village after exiting the tunnel, is a key checkpoint before heading toward Keylong or Leh. En route, we stopped at Tandi, famous for the confluence of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers.
Back in 2010, Tandi was also home to the last petrol pmp before Leh, with the next one 365 km away in Upshi. I still have a photograph of the iconic signboard, marking this distance—a reminder of how travel evolves o
Keylong – The Cultural & Administrative Hub of Lahaul
Keylong is the district headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti and serves as the administrative capital of the region. It is also the main town where travelers can stock up on supplies, enjoy a good meal, and explore Lahauli culture.
Beyond Keylong: The Route to Baralacha La
Our journey took us toward the mighty Baralacha La (16,040 ft), but en route, we stopped at some incredible high-altitude spots:
📍 Deepak Tal – A serene alpine lake, reflecting the rugged mountains that surround it. A peaceful retreat amidst the high-altitude wilderness.
📍 Zingzingbar – Known for its harsh climate and remote beauty, this high-altitude settlement mainly consists of dhabas (roadside eateries) catering to bikers and travelers. At nearly 4,000 meters, altitude sickness can be a concern, so acclimatization is key.
📍 Suraj Tal – One of India’s highest lakes, located just below Baralacha La. The crystal-clear waters and surrounding glaciers make it a breathtaking sight.
📍 Baralacha La – A stunning high-altitude pass that serves as a gateway between Lahaul and Ladakh. The rugged beauty of this pass is unmatched.
Why Lahaul is a Must-Visit Destination?
Less Crowded: Unlike Ladakh and Spiti, Lahaul is still a hidden paradise.
Scenic Drives: From the Atal Tunnel to Baralacha La, every turn is breathtaking.
Unique Culture: Lahaul blends Tibetan Buddhist heritage with traditional Himachali life.
Adventure & Serenity: Resort stays in Jispa provide the perfect balance of comfort and adventure.
Quick Travel Tips: Lahaul Valley
Best Time to Visit: June to September
Permit Needed? No for Indians; yes for some foreign nationals (if heading to Zanskar)
Ideal Trip Duration: 5–7 days for Lahaul, 10+ if combining with Spiti
Access Points: Manali via Atal Tunnel; Leh via Baralacha La
Final Thoughts – A Journey Worth Taking
Lahaul isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience. It’s the transition from green valleys to stark mountain deserts, the thrill of discovering hidden gems, and the joy of seeing a place evolve over time.
As I prepare for my next visit in July, I know this valley will always hold a piece of my heart.
Join our guaranteed departure to explore Lahaul, or get in touch to plan your custom Himalayan escape.
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Read our Spiti travel blog to extend your adventure to Kaza and Chandrataal.
Have Questions? Let’s Chat!
Would you like to experience Lahaul? Drop a comment below or DM me for travel tips. I’d love to help you plan your journey!
